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February 17, 2006     Cape Gazette
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February 17, 2006

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114 - CAPE GAZETTE Friday, Feb. 17 - Monday, Feb. 20, 2006 McLagen's history of 'Bones' a fascinating r e0000ttl By Sheilah Kaufman Special to the Cape Gazette "Bones without meat are possi- ble; meat without bones is not pos- sible." - Yiddish saying Jennifer McLagan, a food writer, shares her love affair with bones in a new book called "Bones: Recipes, History and Lore." The glory of "Bones" is celebrat- ed in chapters devoted to cooking beer, veal, por k , lamb, poultry, fish and game. Each is divided into five sections: stocks, soups, ribs, legs, and extremities. Illustrations showing where the various cuts lie and what to look and ask for when at the butcher. There are tips on carving everything from a pork shoulder to a whole fish. In addi- tion to being a useful, informative cooking, the book is filled with fas- cinating historical facts, traditions, and lore. Great reading that will fascinate any foodie. I loved some of the major roles bones have played in culture throughout history: One of the more curious uses of bones was as ice skates. From the Bronze Age bone skates were common throughout the world's colder regions. Crafted from the metacarpal and metatarsal bones of cattle, these bones were drilled at both ends so that they could be attached to a shoe or ankle. Large bones, like whale jawbones served as sled runners so that goods could be transported a cross ice. SEA BASS BAKED IN A SALT CRUST WITH FRESH TOMATO SAUCE 3 ripe plum tomatoes, cored and diced 6 large basii leaves, shredded 1 garlic clove, crushed Kosher salt and black pepper 1 whole sea bass, about 3 pounds (L35 kg), cleaned but scales left on I sprig each, rosemary, basil, and sage 3 1/2 pounds (1.6 kg) kosher salt 1 pound (450 g) fine sea salt 12 large egg whites (1 1/2 cups [375 ml]) Begin by making the tomato sauce: mix the tomatoes with the shredded basil and garlic in a bowl. Season with salt and pepper, and let marinate at room temperature for at least 2 or up to 4 hours. Remove the garlic before serving. Preheat the oven to 375F. Remove the fish from the refriger- ator. Select a baking sheet, with a lip, large enough to hold the fish with 2 inches (5 cm) space all around. Line the baking sheet with aluminum foil and then with parch- ment paper. Pat the fish dry and place the herbs in its stomach cavi- ty. In a very large mixing bowl, mix the two salts and egg whites very well for about 5 minutes; your hand is the best tool for this. The more you mix, the easier the crust will be to cut when it is baked. Put about half the salt mixture on the prepared baking sheet, spread- ing it out to create a bed for the fish. Lay the fish on top and cover with the remaining salt mixture, making sure that the fish is entirely buried under a blanket of salt from head to tail. Bake for 35 minutes, or until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the thickest part of the fish regis- ters 130E If you have thermome- ter with a probe and insert it the when encasing the fish or use a metal skewer to make a hole in the crust to insert the instant-read ther- mometer. The fish will take about 10 minutes per pound (450 g) to cook. Remove the fish from the oven, break open the crust with a sharp knife, and lift off the pieces of crust to reveal the fish. Remove the skin, and any remaining scales, and cut the fish into portions . Serve with the tomato sauce. For the past 36 years Sheilah Kaufman of Potomac, Md. has been crisscrossing the country from Alaska and Hawaii to Maine and Mexico, demystifying cooking and teaching her "fearless fuss- less, easy ways to elegant cook- ing" to all ages. Email her at cookwithsheilah @ aol. com. Submitted photo The glory of "Bones" is celebrated in chapters devoted to cooking beer, veal, pork, lamb, poultry, fish and game. Affinity Continued from page 113 Jolivet also shipped another delightful Sancerre 2002 Clos du Roy that I rate about 9.0 pts. It can be had for a few more dollars. A typical varietal nose gives way to candied lemon zest and white peach flavors with a small floral bouquet tucked into them. There are the characteristic stone flavors poking through a drawn out finish. Given that the Nozay is slightly less expensive and slightly better rated, you would be better served to buy it. In the event you cannot locate any, move on to the Clos du Roy, which is still a high quality value. Moving up the valley to one of my favorite districts and varietal wines, try to locate a bottle or two \\; of the Foreau Vouvray Molleux ,  Domaine du Clos Naudin 2002. A medium straw colored wine, it /: opens with a pretty varietal nose : :: and some aromas of papaya, and :. ,. pineapple. i :  Although the wine smells fresh, ', I thought I detected a hint of %? botrytis. The flavors are intense, :,} .> ii plums, ginger and chamomile  with a .delicious lemon cream to .i..: This wine .is a lush, sweet style , underlined with plenty of firm acid. Thewine is big and flavor , :':." filled with an intense yet soft rift- ' ish. ' "" Still it is bright and firm. I am ' unsure how to describe this seem- . i:, ing dichotomy but there it is. The Naudin will drink well through 2025. It cost about $50 and worth $80 in my opinion. You may need to be patient in your search but this wine is a 95 pt beauty and well worth the search. Now let's wend our way back down the valley to search out a Pouilly FumE. Pouilly is just across the river from Sancerre but the wines produced in each area are made from the same grape type yet are widely different. This is another expression of 'terroir" a word that many find difficult to comprehend. Many of the Pouilly Fumes, of 2003, have flavors of smoke, broom (the bush) thyme and aca- cia. It is a thicker more intense expression of Sauvignon Blanc and goes well with grilled salmon, chicken and lemony veal dishes. Keep in mind the wine is the acid and use lemon judiciously. Without doubt, the best food pairing for a Pouilly Fum6 is a cheese named Crottin de Chavignol. The manner in which this tangy goat cheese and the wines of Pouilly Fume' compliment each other truly shows the French understanding of the affinity between wine and food. GlaiVE Historic Lewes, DE L441.8q WHAT MAKES DIFFERENT? t/, m iNDEPENDENTLY OWNED & OPERATED WEEKLY SPEOALS: SUN'THURS, RENT 2,GET 1 FREE / r. A $0.99 MOVIE OF THE WEEK /.. A $1 EARLY RETURN CREDIT ON ALL ONE DAY RENTALS t/e  A REWARDS PROGRAM: EVERY 11TH RENTAL IS FREE /  FREE BUTTERY POPCORN ALWAYS AVAILABLE l/. ,. KID FRIENDLY & HAVE A MOVIE WATCHING AREA JUST FOR THEM t/.  A LARGE SELECTION OF FOREIGN & "NOT SO MAINSTREAM" TITLES I///. 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