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April 11, 2008     Cape Gazette
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April 11, 2008

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Horton Continued from page 92 Although this was perfect, can we all get over the popcorn kick please? Serving popcorn for a boatload of money always reminds me of the big ripoff at the movies, a pet peeve of mine. The Viognier matched up well. Still herbaceous but the warmer temperature allowed the nose to devel- op properly and compli- mented the food to a tee. Horton Petit H o r t o n ' s Manseng is a Petit Manseng varietal wine is a varietal that was new to wine. me. The 2006 served was lovely and was up against a very tough match. Warm tuna crudo with hibiscus yogurt, trout roe, hazel- nut brittle and Espelette caviar is an aggressive combination and I was curious to see how it was brought off. The presentation and food composition was excellent. I was especially happy to see that the eyedropper,, chemical bath Espelette was done well. I don't care for this type of cooking but I applaud the fine effort. "Chacun a son gout," Careme said, "To each his own taste." I am also very reluctant to eat warm, raw tuna anywhere but in the absolute best places. There is an extreme hista- mine problem with most tuna that hasn't been properly frozen and sliced before service, before thaw- ing. The many different flavors and textures were incorporated just so. Kudos to the chefs and winemaker. The Horton Vineyards, in Orange County, Virginia, produce what may be the best Viognier in the U.S. Salsify is a rarely used veg- etable that was a staple in Virginia and the other colonies from the earliest writing about food. It was probably brought here from Spain and is often called oyster root because many think it tastes simi- lar to oysters. The chefs at Nage prepared salsify ravioli with peas and carrots in an oxtail broth. This is a modern rendition of a very old classic American dish. Once again it was magnificent. The dish was served with a Horton Syrah 2002, a big, fat, smoky Syrah that was very ripe and spicy. I had thought the wine, made in a Cote du Rhone style, would overwhelm the soup. Wrong again John! The powerfully flavored broth stood up to the wine and the well-made ravioli were accented perfectly by al dente veggies that presented well in their role as accents. Horton Cabernet Franc 2005 was a bit young for my taste. The wood shone through as cedar and there were some pleasing cherry aromas and flavors but the wine was a bit closed out. It did go well with the pan-roasted lamb chop, a point, and misto of leeks, Merquiez, beans, mixed mush- rooms and a surprising addition of dandelion greens that was a lovely bitter counterpoint to this rich dish. The dandelion also brought out the supple tannins of the Cab. Franc. This was, for me the pair- ing of the evening. The Horton Vintage Port 2001 was served with chocolate petit pots and port macerated blueber- ries. The berries were wonderful. The pots, although flavored per- fectly and generally of a delicate texture, had been allowed to stand too long and had developed a gummy crust. I know I am being a bit anal here but when I make this type of dish, I always cut out parchment disks and covered the cream then wrapped it in cling wrap. At service removing the cling and disk leaves that perfect creamy texture through the entire creme. Again that is a bit preachy but it is true and I hope construc- tive. No one gets 100 percent in cooking but a solid 98 percent is great. CAPE GAZETTE - Friday, April 11 - Monday, April 14, 2008 - 93 The meal was terrific and the service and the unobtrusive yet friendly way that Lesley and Ben King, the wine rep, handled the presentation was impeccable. I think the folks told me this was their last wine dinner of the season but they intended to go again in the fall. I'll try to be a better writer and send you a reminder. This may have been the best $80 I spent on food and wine this year. Trust me, that's saying something. You can access these wines through Teller and you can find a full menu of Horton's wonderful wine at Horton is a unique winery due to its usage of early clonal wine and its effort to let the terroir speak. Barbara and I had the pleasure of meeting Mr. Horton. He told us that he and his business partner Joan Bieda got the idea of working with clon- al grapes from the Cote du Rhone because the climate there most closely resembled that in Central Virginia near Barboursville. He also uses Norton, which is a native American grape. He found rootstock in Missouri, Dennis' home state and he decided to revive its use. - Finally whoever can name the music played on the Horton web- site will be given a mention here and a small prize. This is your reward for reading me all the way to the end. Please send the answer to and write your name as you wish it noted. If you don't wish to be mentioned you will still be eligible for the prize. Have a lovely weekend. There are two parts to a wonderful souffl6: the base, which imparts all the flavor, and the egg whites, which do the work. Shown above is the ham and cheese souffl6. Souffl00 Continued from page 92 -to a boil for one minute, stirring continuously. Remove from heat and whisk in egg yolks, one at a time. Stir in the ham mixture and set aside. Beat the egg whites with a pinch of salt until stiff, shiny peaks form; do not overbeat. Gently stir one-fourth of the whipped egg whites into the yolk mixture with a large spoon. Stir in all but the I T of the parme- san cheese. Delicately fold in the remaining egg whites and turn the batter into the prepared baking dish. Sprinkle with reserved cheese and place in oven. Immediately turn down temperature to 375 F and bake until puffed and nicely browned, about 30 to 35 minutes. Yield 3 to 4 servings. Send comments, questions or recipe ideas to capeflavors@com- cast. net. Cape Gazette's comprehensive guide to the best Cape Region dining destinations. Give your customers me opportunity to preview your restaurant and make reformative dining Advertise in the Dine Out book todayI 50,000 of these full color booklets will be available at local hotels, restaurants and B & B's for May 15, 2008 distribution. The book will also be available online at Call 645-7700 to reserve your spacel Ask for Cindy. Sharon..Amanda. Chris or