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April 28, 2017     Cape Gazette
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April 28, 2017

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Food & Drink Cape Gazette FRIDAY, APRIL 28 - MONDAY, MAY 1, 2017 99 I t seems the craft beer move- ment is not an anomaly. It is gathering steam with rapidly accelerating sales. The primary move has not affected wine sales as much as many anticipated. Recent sales figures, compiled over the past five years, confirm that the largest losers are whiskey and large-production domestic beers. Beer Marketer’s Insights, the best-regarded industry news publication, ran a lengthy article and highlighted the 10 beers that had lost most sales. I was surprised at the degree of sales declines for some of the mainstream names: Bud lost 19.5 percent and Miller High Life 28.2 percent. But the lite beers were hit hardest with six of the 10 largest losers in that category: Natural Lite 26.8 percent, Keystone Light 26.6, Milwaukee's Best Light 39.2, and Bud Lite Lime 35.9 led the pack. Tecate, a Mexican brewer, saw sales down 28 percent, while sales of such beers as Modelo Especial and Stella Artois have more than doubled.   The craft beer market is on fire! As you may be aware, this is a highly fractionalized market with a great many regional and local entries. As a comparison, Dogfish Head Craft Brewery, a prominent local producer, is No. 14 on the Brewers Associa- tion Top 50 list. 2015 produc- tion came in at 225K barrels. Yuengling, the oldest extant American brewery, is No. 1 with  2.8 million barrels. Boston Beer Company (Sam Adams) is No. 2 at 4.1 million barrels. Bud is currently at 15 million barrels. For contrast, Allagash Brewing of Portland is No. 50 on the list with 70K barrel production. There are approximately 5,300 registered brewers and brew- pubs in the USA today com- pared to 97 in 1984 and 1,460 in 2006. As you can see, the growth is "fantastical."  Fans of Dave Matthews music may wish to take a look at his recent collaboration with winemaker Sean McKenzie. I sampled five of their Dreaming Tree wines. These are ecology friendly and very good value. Sonoma County Sauvignon Blanc is a tropical fruit bouquet wine with some lime and pine- apple on the palate. It is fresh and zesty with a 13.3 percent alcohol lift, 87 points under $13. The 2015 Central Coast Chardonnay is old style, and I enjoyed it. Pale straw with golden tint, it opened to a pleasant chardonnay fruit nose and showed nice legs. Swirl- ing released some orange and pineapple hints. On the palate, the medium body confirmed the legs, and supported the peach and golden apple flavors. Proper acid structure carried the flavors and cleaned up the moderately long finish. We en- joyed it with a pork roast with a garlic-infused demi and some Yukon mashed with horserad- ish. Yummy! Best for last, they can be found under $15 and I've seen some under $144/case. The 2015 Pinot Noir is a McD 90 under $15, 2 price points. It’s tough to find a PN with this complexity at this price. Very approachable now. Pleasing bouquet of cherry, strawberries and oaken toast. Opened on the palate to juicy fruit supported by an appropriate acid/tannin frame with hints of caramel and barrel spice in the finish. Will support a few years on the shelf. The 2015 Cab costs less than $12. This is tough to rate. Mr. McK- enzie described it as blackberry, cherry, and cassis wrapped in toasted caramel and soft, mouthfilling tannins. I think it is worth trying at the price; that said, I give it 85 points with 2 price points. I think I'd look at Cartlidge and Browne, Fetzer Valley Oaks, Bogle or Hawk Crest around $9 if I were shopping here. The Dream- ing Tree Crush Red Blend is a very interesting wine. While it is not sweet, it isn't bone dry and puckery, either. Crush is a nice little wine for just drinkin’. Pretty, dark garnet-colored, it opens to mixed berries, smoky notes and vanillin aromas. On the palate, raspberries, a hint of leather and mild tannins. The residual sugar is 9.5g/L as compared to around 3.2 or so for the PN and the cab or 100-plus for most Sauternes and icewein, while Eszencia Tokaji can go as high as 900 g/L. At $12, Crush is a respectable 87 points. Finally, I never really ap- preciated Dave Matthews until I saw him do a solo concert while playing a 12-string guitar. Awesome!  Email John McDonald at chjonmc@yahoo. com. Tune up your palate for Dreaming Tree wines WINE John McDonald » THE 2015 PINOT NOIR by Dreaming Tree, Dave Matthews’ wine, is a McD 90 under $15, 2 price points. A fter coloring a dozen eggs for the Easter Bunny, we still have a few hard-boiled eggs left in the refrigerator. Some were sliced over baby spinach leaves; several became appetizers in the form of deviled eggs, and a couple were eaten out of hand sprinkled with salt and pep- per. The rest are headed for my favorite lunch: egg salad.  It’s as common as tuna salad, ham salad or chicken salad, but we may not realize that these mayonnaise-bound concoctions did not appear on the lunch counter menu in this country before the early 1900s. Howev- er, the magic ingredient - may- onnaise - has a much older and somewhat contested pedigree.  Most of us (myself included) assume that mayonnaise is a French invention. But, on the island of Minorca, off the coast of Spain, the inhabitants claim their port city of Mahon is the site where mayonnaise origi- nated. According to Spanish legend, sometime during the middle 1700s, this island was under siege from French invad- ers led by the Duke de Riche- lieu.  When the cook responsible for feeding the forces couldn't find cream for a victory celebra- tion, the locals taught him how to make their special sauce: mayonnaise, named for the city of Mahon. Some food histori- ans argue that the proof of this history lies in the absence of any mention of mayonnaise in French cuisine until nearly 100 years later.  Others scoff at the possibil- ity of such an unsophisticated island populace having the skill or creativity to invent mayon- naise, and they believe its true provenance is Bayonne, known for its artisanal hams. Many French scholars assert the name comes from the French words manier (to handle) or moyeu (for yolk).  No matter who or where can be confirmed as the rightful source of the sauce, nothing about it appeared in British or other European cookbooks until the 1800s, when it is described as an element of French cuisine. Shortly thereafter, mayon- naise reached the United States, featured on gourmet restaurant menus as a garnish for steamed lobster and broiled chicken.  By the early 1900s, Hellmann's familiar glass bottle, decorated with a blue ribbon, started ap- pearing on grocery shelves. German immigrant Richard Hellmann developed his recipe for the customers at his delica- tessen. He then began bottling it for restaurants and retail customers, developing a vast trucking distribution network.  Mayonnaise became a popular ingredient in salads and sand- wich fillers, and for disguising flaws in fresh vegetables. In 1925, a group of 40 companies that were the largest manufac- turers formed the Mayonnaise Manufacturers Association of America, electing Richard Hell- mann as board chair.  Today, the Association for Dressings and Sauces, an in- ternational trade organization, advertises the safety of com- mercial mayonnaise as com- pared to the short shelf life of Hellmann's original handmade sauce. And recipes for mayon- naise-laden dishes continue to appear from salad dressings to oven-fried-chicken breading.  Now, back to our egg salad. The most basic (and in my opinion, the most delicious) combination includes just a few ingredients: mayonnaise, Dijon mustard, salt, pepper and chopped eggs. We use an egg slicer to first cut the eggs crosswise, then turn the egg in the slicer by 90 degrees to chop the slices into uniform bits.  As with so many long-lived dishes, the modifications to egg salad are many, from the sweet pickle relish added by Penn- sylvania Dutch and Southern cooks to the tea-time favorite additions of chopped cucumber and watercress. To serve egg salad, thin slices of bread are a familiar option, while beds of lettuce or hollowed tomatoes also work well.  Mayonnaise is the magic ingredient CAPE FLAVORS » Denise Clemons Continued on page 100 JACK CLEMONS PHOTO EGG SALAD IS A GREAT WAY to repurpose leftover Easter eggs.