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June 13, 2003     Cape Gazette
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June 13, 2003

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| Wine Continued from page 75 Madeira is neglected today. It is one of three fortified wines. The others are better known - port and sherry. It comes in several styles. Originally, they were labeled by grape variety - sercial (dry), sweet, Verdelho, Rainwater, Boal and Malmsey and range from dry to very sweet. Regardless of the degree of sweetness, they all share a similar taste profile. They are pungent and tangy due to the vol- canic soil. They have good acidity so even the sweeter grades are in balance. Probably the most no- table flavor is that of a burnt caramel associated with the top- ping on a cr6me caramel. This last character is impartedby the spe- cial way the wine is made. Wine merchants in the early 1800s noticed that the trip through the heat of the tropics actually en- hanced the fortified wines. They began to bake the wine in estufas - hot rooms - to initiate the natural effect they had observed. Today, this is done by heating the wine to 120 F in glass-lined tanks for a minimum of three months. The wines are then placed barrels to age for at least three years, to be labeled Reserva, five years, and Food Continued from page 76 about 1 to 2 minutes. Do not let mixture come to a boil. Remove from heat and stir in heavy cream and vanilla. Let mixture cool completely, about 15 minutes. Stir in strawberry mixture. Transfer mixture to ice cream maker and freeze according to directions. STRAWBERRY OR RASPBERRY SAUCE 1 pt. strawberries or raspber- ries, hulled and coarsely chopped 1/4 C sugar 2 t fresh lemon juice Combine all ingredients in a large bowl. Crush with potato masher until almost smooth. HOT FUDGE SAUCE 3/4 C sugar 2/3 C heavy cream Reserva Speciale. for which a minimum of 10 years is necessary. As with most good things, Madeira ran its course. It was ab- breviated most likely by infesta- tions. In the 1850s, the vineyards were damaged by a mildew named oidium and then in the 1870s, phylloxera struck. This last disease devastated the European wine industry and was resolved by grafting to American root stock...but that's another story. At this juncture, the growers made a major error. Instead of grafting each grape varietal, they decided to switch to Tinta Negra Mole, a very prolific variety of grape. The labeling had to do with style over substance at this point. Fortunately, in 1986, Portugal joined the Common Market whose rules required them to have at least 85 percent of the grapes named in the blend. Even more recently, new laws have been established where they must be entirely from the vintage and variety listed and must be aged a minimum of 20 years in the cask, plus two years in the bottle. The growers and shippers hope that this stringent labeling will help to restore Madeira's reputa- tion. As to choosing a brand, you need to be aware that all of the problems listed above caused a 3 T light corn syrup 5 oz. unsweeterled chocolate, chopped 3 T butter I t vanilla extract In a small saucepan, combine sugar, heavy cream and corn syrup. Cook over medium heat, stirring frequently with a wooden spoon, about 3 minutes or until sugar is dissolved. Stir in choco- late and butter with a wire whisk until completely blended and smooth. Remove from heat and stir in vanilla extract. To reheat, add some milk. BUTTERSCOTCH SAUCE 3/4 packed light brown sugar 113 C heavy cream 1/3 C light corn syrup 1 T butter I t vanilla extract In a small saucepan, combine sugar, cream, corn syrup and but- eriou. oongolidtinn in th; in- dustry. All of the major names which I will list are produced and bottled by Madeira Wine Compa- ny. They are Blandy's, Cossart Gordon, Leacock Rutherford and Miles and Welsh Brothers. Wines pre 1850 are still available, al- though very expensive. Madeira from this era generally seems in- destructible and still continues to improve. Some dated wines from the in- tervening period will have the word "solera" on the label. These have been refreshed with younger vintages and may or may not have any relationship to the listed vin- tage. The modern age is still in its infancy and is really difficult to assay. I can say with authority that a Boal or Malmsey enhances many desserts, especially cus- tards, and those that are caramel- based. Would I recommend cellaring these wines? Sorry, I just can't make the call. Broadbent is an 'authority' in this area. I personal- ly have disagreed with many of his assessments of other wines in the past, so I have trouble recom- mending his taste. As I have re- peated, taste is individual and there is really no agreement but a broad range. In short, you'll have to find your own guru or trust your taste buds. ter. Bring to a boil over high heat, stirring frequently. Reduce heat to low and cook 1 minute, stirring occasionally. Remove from heat and stir in vanilla. Add some cookies and brown- ies and you have an excellent summer pastime. I won't suggest a cake because when I was a fledgling reporter, when my life's ambition was to write Focus on Food, I tried to make my mother a birthday cake. The only problem was that I did not know the differ- ence between a teaspoon and a ta- blespoon. So I ended up with about 10 cakes under my bed and a very sick dog. So stick with the cookies and brownies. Speaking of cookies and brownies, all I have to say to my Red Sox is make like a bread truck and move your buns. Fenway forever. Take me out to the ball park. Take me out to the game. Comer of Savannah Rd. & Cape Henlopen Dr., Lewes CAPE GAZE'IWE, FridaT, June 13 - June 18p 2003- 77 Lunch 11-3 pm Dinner from 6 pm Sunday Brunch 11-3 For Reservations Call 227-3674 59 Rehoboth Ave. * Rehoboth Beach, DE