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October 15, 2010     Cape Gazette
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October 15, 2010

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Food&- Drink ' 96 FRIDAY, OCTOBER 15 - MONDAY, OCTOBER 18, 2010 / Cape Gaze It'sthe spread that "" makes the sandwich here's nothing as sails- , fying as sinking your teeth into a welt-con- structed sandwich. And, whatever else may be in- side, the most important ingre- dient is what's spread on the bread. Whether you're making dainty tea sandwiches with sweet creamery butter or com- bining delicate crab cakes with a dollop of tartar sauce, the spread makes the sandwich. One of the best examplesof this theory is the classic New Orleans treat in the photo, the "Ynuffuletta. This sandwich is named for the Italian bread used to make it: a slightly flattened 10- inch round sesame-topped loaf with an airy interior texture somewhere between focaccia and ciabatta - perfect for hold- ing pockets of chopped olive sal- ad. The olive mixture is assem- bled well in advance and given time in the refrigerator for the flavors to meld. Some of the olive oil is brushed on the bread before a generous slather of olive salad is spread over both cut sides of the loaf. The layers of hard and soft salami, cheese and sometimes tomatoes are al- most secondary to the rich com- bination of olives and season- ings. You can fred jars of olive salad in gourmet food stores, but it's worth the trouble to make your own. Another perfect spread is horseradish mayonnaise. The recipe I've included calls for fresh dill and capers to add bright flavor notes. Spread this on a bagel and top with paper- ' thin slices of smoked saknon for breakfast. Alternatively, spread some on pumpernickel bread and pile on slices of rare roast beef for lunch. For any type of fried fish sand- wich, tartar sauce is the spread of choice. I usually make my own to avoid many of the preservatives, additives and odd flavors sometimes found in the commercial jarred varieties. If you like, substitute equal amounts of pickle relish for the minced pickle, making sure to drain off any excess liquid first, Without question the most _ popular sandwich spread in our house is mustard. There are riever less than three open bot- tles at any time: yellow for]acE grainy for me and Dijon for guests. Although I'd never before made mustard from scratch, once I discovered how simple it is, I thought I'd give it a try. The ingredient list is short- dry mustard and liquid. For grainy mustard use a combina- tion of powder and seeds; for flavor interest mix cider or THE MUFFULETTA IS NAMED for the Italian with an airy interior texture somewhere between foc herbal vinegar with water and' wine. No cooking is involved; stirthe mixture as it sits in a bowl for a few hours, then cover and refrigerate until you're ready to make a sandwich. If you taste it immediately, you'll fmd it quite sharp; the mellow- ing time is necessary to trans- form the paste into an excellent spread. Of course, not every sandwich has to be serious, which brings us to marshmallow fluff, a sweet, spreadable marshmallow paste. The current version is credited to Archibald Query of Somerville, Massachusetts, who perfected his formula in 1916. This fluffy stuff, which resem- bles stk typicall' ter betw bread to sandwic mine to nutritiol The fl cal ire k islature its unhe grade sc After a, tial ban, the tow] edanar "What culinary Archiba sandwic JACK CLEMONs PHOTO used to make it: a slightly flattened 10qnch round sesame-topped loaf perfect for holding pockets of chopped olive salad. o] whipped cream, is paired with peanut but- een two slices of white create the flufiffernutter h. I add sliced banana to make it marginally more tS. affemutter drew politi- the Massachusetts leg- Is recently as 2006 for dthy appearance on hool cafeteria menus. kirmish over the poten- )f marshmallow fluff, L of Somerville institut- nual fall festival called le Fluff' to honor the contributions of d Query and his unique h spread. Olive Salad 1 C chopped pimento-stuffed green olives 1 C chopped Kalamata olives 1/2 C roasted red peppers, chopped 1 celery stalk, finely chopped 2 minced garlic cloves 1/2 C olive oil 1/3 C chopped parsley 11/2 t fresh oregano, minced 1 T lemon juice Mix together all the ingredi- ents until combined. Cover and refrigerate for at least 8 hours or overnight. Serve with bread- sticks as a dip or as the required spread on a muffuletta sand- wich. Continued on page 97 aromas. A bit prickly in the mouth due to tannic grip and minerality, it finishes complex with more fruit, wood briar, smoke and forest floor. I saw it on sale under $245/case. This wine comes in lovely painted bottles. They may be worth the price without the wine. Will im- prove six to eight years. R Wines also makes a very pretty unoaked Cabemet Sauvi- gnon 2008 named Darby and Joan. Shows deep red crimson with aromas of ripe plums and iuniper, fruit-driven, fitll-bodied, with fresh boysenberry and licorice on the mid palate. Fin- ishes with lingering sweet tan- nins and fruit. A rare bottle. When have you tried a Cab with no oak? Buy it under $1.44/case. Email John McDonald at hat great wine tasting I have been visiting the past four years is on for Monday, Oct. 18, in Madison N.J. It is a charity event o support Atlantic Hospice, agnon Cardiovascular Institufe and Interfaith Food Pantry. The wine and food displayed by 'Gary's in conjunction with many producers and distributors are terrific. Go here for info: nd tasfing.html. I'm taking my daughter again this year to help me taste and evaluate. Hope to see some of you at the tasting. Ossa Anna, Napa Merlot, 2007 is on sale under $200 per case. The nose is pure fruit influ- enced by spicebox, licorice and earth; no oak or chocolate to mar the aromas. Lovely tannins on a balanced acid frame carry currant flavors to a pleasing medium-long finish. Goes great with roast beef and broiled steak. Big bottle Burgundy buyers: Mommesin Clos des Tart 2004 magnums, 91 points, are on sale. I wrote about these in 2009 and can tell you they are improved to 93 points. Go to Suburban site in Yorktown, N.Y. for info and purchase. Last price I saw on these Grand Cru mags was north of $500. Will go quickly. Here's a bit of trivia. Clos des Tart is one of very few Bur- gundy Grands Crus that is not broken into small parcels. Sub- urban is offering many great buys and may need cash. How about '97 Spottswoode Cab for $11971 saw it on the net for less, but it was out of stock. Give them a call; make your best deal. Since Argentina leapt into the wine writers'fertile imagina- tions little has been written of Aussie wine. For you that is a good thing. Prices are soft. Fol- lowing the winemaker led me to sample a Charles Cimicky Wines Shiraz Trumps, Barossa .Valley, 2008, recommer!ded 92 points, by Jay Miller, Writing in WA. I had a different impression of the wine than he; I rated it 94 points. Dark purple colored, with cedar, smoke, graphite and blueberry aromas. Opens smooth, round, medium-bodied and load and blac clean ft buy und, wine pe] Drink n enioy Sir low Cin who conl to distril lous atte Chris l of freque with his : Wines C You will and likec and whe: appearec tie after t doesn't 1 with the er high-r Brilliant crushed ed with, ripe, spicy blue : berry flavors. Nice sh. Best of all you can ,r $250/case and your ;on can make a living. w through 2018. If you raz from Barossa fol- cky. A great winemaker rols his product, terroir utor, and pays meticu- ltion to detail. 'dngland, whom I write ntly, is leading the pack 'emarkable 2007 R ads Ringland Shiraz. remember many tried the 2006. So did RP I he gave it a 93 it dis- faster than Mike Cas- he primary. The 2007 ave much in common 2006, except it is anoth- lting wine. I say 91. alby opens with i'uit and light cedar Great winemaker controls product, pays attention to detail