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December 3, 2010     Cape Gazette
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December 3, 2010

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[]1 Jlgi..Jlll '.Hi J Iflliitlil U ]LItlI] P 70 FRIDAY, DECEMBER 3 - MONDAY, DECEMBER 6, 2010 Cape | Gazette ne of the highlights of our recent trip to Dis- ney World was the opportunity to take a cooking class with John Hui, corporate pastry chef for the Pebble Beach Resorts. Although billed as a class, it wasn't intend- ed to be a hands-on experience. The format was a standard cooking demonstration - people seated around tables watching the presentation in a mirror an- gled over the chef's workspace. The menu was short, a simple but elegant dessert: blueberry PEBBLE BEACH COMPANY PHOTO John Hui, corporate pastry chef, Pebble Beach Resorts. frozen yogurt in a lime-scented meringue shell garnished with brandy snaps and orange madeleines. We weren't expecting a wine pairing with such a small dish until the host of the event intro- duced a sommelier. She extolled the virtues of Prosecco, an Ital- ian sparkling wine named for the grape variety cultivated in the Veneto region of the country, near Verona and Venice. Her selection of a delicate Prosecco, with its slight hints of fruit, was chosen as the ideal complement for dessert. We received the usual tasting instructions before sipping - ob- serve the color and efferves- cence, inhale the aroma, let the bubbles play on your tongue, hold a mouthful before swallow- hag, enjoy the lingering flavors. Her patter was hypnotic, and be- fore long, heads were bobbing in agreement that this perfectly crisp beverage was ideal to serve with breakfast, lunch, dinner - and, of course, dessert. She con- cluded with a caution to save some in our glass to taste with the chef's creation. Stop sipping and get back to the cooking de- mo. While Chef Hui was whipping egg whites into meringue, the host narrated, commenting on tools and techniques. He stayed so busy answering her ques- tions, he forgot to add the lime zest, a key ingredient. I've in- cluded his recipe (with lime BLUEBERRY FROZEN YOGURT IN zest) in the same form we re- ceived it, which calls for corn- starch by weight instead of vol- ume, typical 0f pastry baking. His instructions also assumed that all the dry ingredients were sifted and the sugar was lump- free (a problem he encountered in the Florida humidity). Next he assembled the base of the frozen yogurt, cooking the blueberries until they released much of their juice but before they could disintegrate. As he stirred in the yogurt, milk and cream, he noted that frozen yo- gurt is lighter than ice cream, but still creamy, hence the addi- JACK CLEMONS PHOTO UME-SCENTED meringue shells, with brandy snap and madeleine. tion of full-fat dairy ingredients. As demonstrated, the brandy snaps were just that - a snap to make. Mix the ingredients to- gether, refrigerate overnight and bake the next day to create crunchy, lacey cookies. Making the madeleines was a bit more involved, including the need for a pastry bag to pipe the batter into the special pan that forms their signature seashell shape. This recipe calls for fresh or-. ange juice and zest, adding a lay- er of flavor that would have like- ly pleased Proust. At the conclusion of the demonstration we were served the plated dish (prepared in ad- vance, arranged on trays, ready to distribute to the salivating students - see photo). ChefHui explained the essential elements he wanted in his dessert: a beau- tifully presented combination of textures and flavors. Success in- cluded crunch from the meringue and brandy snap, smooth and cool mouthfuls of frozen yogurt, delicate morsels of madeleine, with the exacting placement of garnish and cook- ies to create height and weight and colorful symmetry. One taste made us very happy we'd Continued on page 71 out the latest lfs all about ig buck bettors better buy beautiful Bordeaux futures 97-100 points. Those with thin wal- lets, no cellar or no patience, skip to next thought. The 200% are the perfect storm! So say all. In this rare instance, I'm guess- ing futures are the way to go. If "your local, well cultivated wine store maven can't help you, go to this website: , ing-WS%26nbsp%3B97-100. Please buy locally whenever possible. The 2005 Brunello di Montalcino, three for $120. One each of94-point V'flla I Cipressi: opens to flowers, India spice, in- cense and plum aromas; a lay- ered, concentrated beauty with depth and a long finish. Great midpalate fruit and plenty of tannin to support it. Poggio Castellare was written up last fall. Still needs a few in the cel- lar. Plenty of fruit, wood-driven cedar and chewy tannin tells me this matures into a star. La Rasi- na needs until at least 2014. La Rasina is one of the best new producers. Slightly closed but aeration showed plenty of fruit to support a chewy, full-bodied wine. Both are 93 points. The latest buzz is Carmenerel Montes lhn-ple Angel 2007 leads the parade. This Chilean proba- bly kept hope alive for those miners. Black-purple color says huge and concentrated. Black- berry, currant and well-integrat- ed oak-driven spice aromas (18 months in cask) open to ripe fruit flavors extending through a long fruit-driven, sweet finish, although the wine is completely dry. WS gave it 91 points; $650/12 is too high, too much hype. If you can buy it under $40/bottle give it a try. Ready now', will drink through 2013. Patience is rewarded for those Chardonnay drinkers whoper- severe. An Oregonian, Bergstrom Old Stones Chardon- nay 2009, can be had for roughly $255/case. Bergstrom was cho- sen the second of 78 Oregon Chards sampled by Wine Advo- cate's lay Miller and given 92 points. My read is 93-plus due to the price. This Chard underwent malolactic aging in 40 percent new oak and reminds me of the older style I so loved. Golden straw-colored, opens to baked apple, toast, pear and hazelnut aromas with a touch of smoke. Mid palate has plenty of ripe fruit, concentration and a round mouthfeel. Finishes long and cleanly. You may drink it now but to get max bang for the buck start in 2012 and continue through 2017. Go for the case if you are able. They aren't mak- ing a lot of these anymore. Just in from Peggy Raley and sister Suzette Hopkins - the Thanksgiving newsletter. It has an absolutely delightful potato gratin that incorporates Lewes Dairy's incomparable cream, lo- cal walnuts and fresh local sage. I cooked it up it and loved it. Go here to find the recipe: nas- and sign up for the newsletter. The new release, 2009 Cab, inaugural date was Friday, Nov. 26. Drop on by and check out Nassau Valley Vine- yards' gallery and wine museum. Pretty cool! Last week my pagemate Denise wrote asking what I thought of the Villa Maria Pri- vate Bin Pinot Noir. At first blush I would say that the match should be adequate. I would choose a Cabernet or Bordeaux to marry with lamb and tomato combinations. Of course the vintage makes a big difference. The private bin is a winemaker's art statement. Each year ViUa Maria selects grapes from many Marlborough vineyards then tries to fabricate - a wine that will be similar year to year. They have been successful, generally attaining ratings in the 87-91 range. It is blended pinot noir from the region; 2007 is cherry, raspberry, soft tannin. I would love it with duck. All things being equal, I would probably buy the Villa Maria Single Vineyard Seddon 2007, a high-quality, reasonably priced model. Of the private bin the 2006 is best now. A little inside joke in Aussie and New Zealand concerning the Yanks. The bin is the trash container. We are not humanbe- hags going through a temporary spiritual experience. We are spiritual beings going through a temporary human experience - Einstein. Politicians and diapers should be changed often and for the same reasons. Email John McDonald at