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Lewes, Delaware
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December 6, 2002     Cape Gazette
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December 6, 2002

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CAPE GAZETTE, Friday, Dec. 6 - Dec. 12, 2002 - 89 FOC)D & DRINK I I f I II Exploring Scandinavian cuisine and its origins By Sheilah gaufman ' My mother use to tell me about the win- ters growing up in North Dakota: blizzards, 10-foot snow drifts, walking to school in minus 20 degree weather and Scandinavian friends. Recently I attended a number of Swedish Christmas bazaars, and enjoyed many new culinary treats in addition to old favorites that I prepare for family and friends and teach in my classes. What is Scandinavian cuisine? What in- fluenced its development? With the excep- tion of the smorgasbord, how many Scandi- navian traditions and recipes do you know? The cuisine can be characterized as old, fresh and natural...there is the Viking past with its great influence, and the nursery rhyme aspect - curds and whey, porridge, fruit tarts and more. The Vikings learned the processes of pre- serving meat, fish, vegetables and fruit about a thousand years ago in preparation for their long voyages. During this time, there were no borders separating Norway, Sweden, Denmark and Finland. Indepen- dence came to Denmark in 1665, Norway in 1903. Finland was part of Sweden for 600 years and was conquered by Russia in 1809. In 1917 Finland obtained its freedom. The roots of Scandinavian.cuisine lie in the geography - from green rolling hills, fields and pastures, mountains, forests (or lack thereof) and seas, climate, and geo- graphic and human isolation. Salt herring and cod were a huge staple of the European diet. One of the most famous delicacies to come from Scandinavia is cured salmon, or gravlax. Most Scandinavian recipes can be easily duplicated with American or import- ed ingredients. Here are some easy fa- vorites for cold weather enjoyment. To learn more about Swedish history, The American Swedish Historical Museum in Philadelphia was founded to preserve Swedish and Swedish American cultural heritage and traditions. You can explore the influence of Swedes and Swedish Ameri- cans on American life from the arrival of Swedes in the Delaware Valley in 1638 through the mass migration from 1840 to Meatballs meet their match with a sour cream dill sauce, as a creative Scandinavian creation. 1920 to the present. You can even begin the holiday season with the Lucia Festival in early December (December 7th from noon to 4:30). Call 215-389-1776 for more infor- mation. GRAVALOX This impressive, a real winner and can also be used as an elegant appetizer. 4 pounds (center piece) fresh salmon, in 2 filets 2/3 C salt 2/3 C sugar 2 t coarsely crushed peppercorns I t coarsley crushed allspice 1 t ground cardamom 4 large bunches fresh dill 2/3 C Dijon mustard 1/4 C sugar 114 C white wine vinegar freshly ground pepper salt to taste 1/4 C sour cream 213 C chopped fresh dill 2/3 C olive oil Pat the salmon, dry. Combine the salt, sugar, peppercorns, allspice and cardamom in a bowl, mixing well. Rub this mixture into the flesh side of the salmon. " Arrange a bunch of dill on the bottom of a large ceramic or glass dish. Place one filet on the dill, skin side down. Place a bunch of dill over the fillet and cover it with the second filet. Rub the remaining marinade over the skin and cover with more dill. Scatter dill around the fish. Cover the fish with waxed paper and place a brick or cans or a heavy plate over it to weigh it down. Refrigerate fish for 48 hours, turn- ing periodically. To serve, remove filets and scrape off seasoning. Continued on page 90 I I I Ideas for pairing food and wine Recently, I received this query. :"Dear Mr. McDonald, I am very curious about pairing food and wine. Can you give me any pointersT' Attached was an email ad- dress. I started to respond when it oc- curred to me that this would make a good weekly column. Of course I responded to the question by telling Sarah my plan and I hope this week's scribbling will help re- solve the problem for those of you who are interested. For the rest, have a great week. I want to start with five simple ideas for doing these pairings. l.Heavily oaked wine can overwhelm the delicate aromas and flavors of most delicate seafood and poultry dishes. 2. Full wines with floral or oaky aromas blend well with rich egg based dishes as well as those with creamy sauces. As long time readers know well, I have a penchant for good Viogner. Try one with cheese filled ravioli and a light chicken veloute to see how a perfect match should exhibit. 3. If the wine one has chosen shows a pronounced acid backbone, try serving it with mackerel types or swordfish. These also go well, with starchy foods such as seafood risotto paellas and polentas. 4. Full multifaceted red wines such as Cotes du Rhones match with red meats, goose, duck, and game. Bordeaux of course is the perfect pairing for lamb. 5. Finally and most important, there is Continued on page 90 Getl:;mg back to the basics for the holidays I hope you had a happy Hanukkah. Prudence, my Sealy, and I did. Prudence becomes Jew- ish the day before Hanukkah. Then she becomes a Christian right before Christmas. I have to remind her that she is from Wales, but that doesn't really make any difference. That means Tom Daschle, stop yelling at Rush Limbaugh. And Rush, stop yelling at everyone. Is Morley Safer? Does Leslie Stahl? I'm Anne Graham and this is Focus on Food. All I am saying is give peace a chance. This time of year during the holidays, let's get back to some basic recipes. Have some light breakfasts and relax. How about some great golden popovers or crepes or FOCUS ON FOOD Anne Graham Yorkshire (Prudence, remember you are from Wales) pudding. We are setting up the Christmas tree, but you can bake these while you are trimming the tree. POPOVERS 1 C all-purpose flour 1/2 t salt 2 eggs 1 C milk 1 T unsalted butter Sift flour, measure, add salt and sift again. Beat eggs with a rotary beater until light and thick. Add flour and 1/3 cup of the milk; con- tinue to beat slowly until all the flour is moistened, about 30 sec- onds. Gradually add remaining milk and melted shortening, beat- ing until the mixture is free from lumps, 1 to 2 minutes. Fill greased custard cups or iron muffin pans a little less than half full. Bake in a hot oven (425 F) about 40 min- utes. Serve at once. Makes 6 to 8 servings. If drier popovers are preferred, prick each one with a sharp fork 5 minutes before the baking is finished. Bacon or sausage popovers: Place diced crisp bacon in pans which have been greased with the bacon drip- pings, before adding batter. Bake as directed. Or use partially cooked slices of sausage. Popover shells: Prepare popovers as directed and fill the baked popovers with creamed eggs, vegetables, fish, chicken or ham. YORKSHIRE PUDDING : Yorkshire pudding is used as an accompaniment for breakfast with corn beef. The meat should be re- moved from the oven before the pudding is baked, since the latter required a much higher baking temperature; or use another oven. Prepare popover batter as di- rected. Put 4 tablespoons drip- pings from the corned beef into a square pan. Pour in the batter and bake in a hot oven (425 F) 40 to 45 minutes. Serve at once. CREPES SUZETTE 1/4 C unsalted butter 2 T thinly slivered orange peel 1 T grated lime 1 T thinly slivered lemon 1/3 C orange juice 1/4 C sugar 2 T fresh lemon juice 12 basic crepes 3 T Grand Marnier 2 T brandy Melt butter in heavy large skil- Continued on page 90