Newspaper Archive of
Cape Gazette
Lewes, Delaware
Jim's Towing Service
December 15, 2017     Cape Gazette
PAGE 88     (88 of 115 available)        PREVIOUS     NEXT      Full Size Image
PAGE 88     (88 of 115 available)        PREVIOUS     NEXT      Full Size Image
December 15, 2017

Newspaper Archive of Cape Gazette produced by SmallTownPapers, Inc.
Website © 2019. All content copyrighted. Copyright Information.     Terms Of Use.     Request Content Removal.

Food & Drink Cape Gazette FRIDAY, DECEMBER 15 - MONDAY, DECEMBER 18, 2017 89 H ere are some Chanu- kah facts of which few are aware. Initially the Menorah (a candelabra with eight holders for my gentile friends) was originally placed outside to the left of your door- way as you enter, because the Mezuzah (a case containing a piece of parchment called a klaf, inscribed with specific Hebrew verses from Deuteronomy 6:4-9 and 11:13-21), is placed by decree on the right side. With the mezuzah on one side and the menorah on the other, you are literally surrounded by holiness. If you wish to learn more, go to this page http://www.chabad. org/holidays/chanukah/arti- cle_cdo/aid/3840625/jewish/13- Hanukkah-Facts-Every-Jew- Should-Know.htm. Happy Chanukah!  Regarding Chateauneuf du Pape, the palates I trust most are Jancis Robinson, Stephen Tanzer and my own. Just opened Domaine La Janasse, Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Tradition 2012 that JR rated 18 (that's 102 Parker and 94 Tanzer). WS would write "wonderful, but we prefer the 2007 Cuvee'XXL” ( Of course you would!) Unfortunately, the XXL goes for $453/bottle and it only rated 93 points. In my plebian world that's not worth the candle. After a bit of search- ing, I located two cases of 2012 in NYC at $50/bottle and free shipping. As an added fillip, I opted for the 2012 over the 2010 which many critics claimed superior. They were decidedly wrong in my opinion. The 2012 is just entering its window and will improve at least seven to eight years, and cellar through at least 2030. The "10" is already peaked. Right now I'm recom- mending the Janasse CdP Cuvee Ville Vignes, 2013, $99, 94 McD points. Best since 2009, and better than 2007 which finishes alcoholic hot. "13" is still dark purple colored with plums, blackberries some licorice and herbal bouquet. On the full-bodied palate more plums, some black tea and ripe fruit supported by sweet tannins and gravel minerality. At the end of a pleasing finish I detected a pretty chocolaty ganache. Janasse makes several CdP Cuvees in most years, so be sure to read the labels carefully. They are unequal in any vintage year. Goes great with pork, lamb or beef roast and compliments plum pudding or chocolate/ spice yule roll.  2015 Moulin a Vent is at least as wonderful as the stellar 2009. 2009 is past its drinking window now. There are 10 cru Beaujolais: Brouilly, Chénas, Chiroubles, Côte de Brouilly, Fleury, Juliénas, Morgon (Do- maine Jean Foillard Cote de Py ), Moulin-à-Vent (Albert Bichot, Rochegres), Régnié ( Maison des Bulliat Vielles Vignes) and St. Amour by name. If you can't locate the recom- mendations you can always fall back to Louis Jadot and other shippers. These folks are reinventing Cru Beaujolais into prize wine. Follow the money, Hunnys. Relatively speaking, these are fairly inexpensive, in the low to mid $20s. Buy four 2014 or 2015 from different producers and have a tasting party. A judicious two ounce serving will allow enough for 12 people. Please serve the hors d'oeuvre cheese and crackers after you evaluated the wine.  Sampled a Quinta do Portal Colheita Tinto 2014 from R/ West. So, Colheita (pronounced Col-yate-a) are single vintage- dated Tawny Port, juice from one harvest, aged in small used oak barrels. Wiki, ”In Portu- guese the word ‘Colheita’ actu- ally means ‘harvest,’ and can be construed therefore, to mean vintage as well." I have been following this Quinta for sev- eral years. Recent information shows cases being sold in New Jersey from $155-170/case for the "14s." Compares favorably to the 2003. Another Portuguesa in this category is Cartuxa Col- heita Tinto Alentejo. I sampled the 2013, first time for this label. 89 McD under $20. Both wines are a bit tannic but color, fruit and acidity says, "please give me a few years to mature." If you wish to go upscale, look for Quinto do Portal Grande Reserve 2014; gets 91 points under $48. Those who wish to explore Portuguese, other than Port, should note that the winemakers, generally speaking, are adept at blending product to replicate profiles. After all, they are notorious for Tawny Port. Unlike nearly every other pro- duction region, the Portuguese will not declare a vintage port if the juice isn't stellar. It is this rigid adherence to quality, plus the extensive experience with blending that drives production of Colheita. Be careful; the label reads "Tinto" when buying. Many producers make white wine that has a very similar label.   Email John McDonald at chjonmc@yahoo. com. Chateauneuf du Pape: Be sure to read labels WINE John McDonald » A s we start planning our holiday menus, I’m thinking about alterna- tives for the traditional meal. While some families insist their tables must be filled with the exact same dishes every year, we’re more flexible. Mashed po- tatoes were a constant through- out my childhood, so I’d like to find a substitute. Except for Bridget’s garlic version, the last few times I’ve had mashed potatoes, they weren’t great, likely because they had to wait for the rest of the dishes to be assembled or served. Growing up, the potatoes were always boiled in advance, mashed before the turkey was out of the oven and then languished under tin foil, losing their heat. If your guests require some version of white potatoes, you can avoid the cold potato problem by selecting a different recipe than standard mashed. Baked potatoes are too boring, even with a variety of toppings. Twice-baked potatoes are nice, but take too much time and at- tention during a busy day. One approach is to make a dish you can assemble in advance and toss in the oven about an hour before you sit down to eat. A good choice for this is the mandoline potatoes in the photograph. Thinly sliced, nestled together, doused with olive oil and seasonings, these bring lots of flavor and tender potato texture to the plate. Another is the very rich and decadent Pommes Dauphi- noise or au gratin potatoes.  A mandoline slicer is the kitchen tool that makes these dishes possible. The first known illustration of one appeared in a cookbook published in 1570 by Bartolomeo Scappi a cook for Pope Pius VI. The image shows a small board with a central cutting blade and perpendicular blades to cut the food into thin sticks (julienne). Speculation about the name’s origin feature a number of ur- ban legends, but the most likely source is the technique chefs originally used: they would sim- ply hold it against their chest to slice the vegetables directly into the bowl or pot. Today, the mandoline is set at an angle so the food can be slid along the surface to reach the blade which cuts a slice and drops it onto the surface below. Modern versions of the man- doline are made of hard plastic or metal instead of wood and the blades are either set in a V- shape or straight across. Some use different inserts to vary the thickness, while the “Bennie” or Benriner (a Japanese brand of plastic mandoline slicer) uses a screw to allow very fine adjust- ments to the blade height. Because of this precision, uniform slices allow predict- able cooking times. The design and sharpness of the cutting blades in a mandoline can also be responsible for dangerous injury. If the hand that is hold- ing the food comes too close to the blade, you can lose a slice of finger. The safety guard is essential. Mandolines range in price and style from $15 handheld versions to professional mod- els approaching $100. Mine is a sturdy, basic Börner V-slicer almost as old as the German company that made it; they’ve been in business since 1956. And this was the handy slicer that made short work of nearly 3 pounds of potatoes. When making this dish, try to select potatoes roughly the same size. As you can see in the photo, there was a bit of variety in these. If you’d prefer not to peel the potatoes, choose tender-skinned new or red potatoes. Russets will definitely need peeling to eliminate their tough-textured and sometimes dirt-flavored skins. These po- tato and carrot recipes will give you some options, even if you don’t wait for the holidays.  Mandoline Potatoes 4 T butter  6 large red potatoes 2 T olive oil 1 t Italian seasoning* 1/4 C Parmesan cheese salt and pepper, to taste Preheat oven to 375F. While oven is heating, place butter in oval or round baking pan in the oven to melt. Using a mandoline cut potatoes into 1/4-inch thick slices. Pour melted butter out of the pan into a small dish. Ar- range the potato slices vertically in the prepared pan. Drizzle with olive oil. Sprinkle with Italian seasoning and Parmesan cheese. Drizzle with reserved melted butter. Cover pan tightly with foil and bake for 45 min- utes. Remove foil and bake an additional 15 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Yield: 6 servings.  Pommes Dauphinoise* 2 C heavy cream 1 clove garlic, smashed 2 lbs russet potatoes, peeled salt and pepper, to taste pinch nutmeg 1 lb shredded Gruyere cheese, shredded 1 T grated Parmesan cheese Preheat oven to 350F. Coat the bottom of a large baking dish with non-stick cooking spray; set aside. In a heavy saucepan, combine cream and garlic; heat Make a dish you can assemble in advance CAPE FLAVORS Denise Clemons » JACK CLEMONS PHOTO MANDOLINE POTATOES baked with olive oil and parmesan cheese. Continued on page 90